The creators of the popular, mid-century modern Avalon and Maison 140 hotels in Beverly Hills, have sunk U.S.$15 million into the former mid-market family vacation hotel, turning it into an upscale "design hotel", The Viceroy. The totally over-hauled hotel re-opened in July, and was instantly one of the hottest properties in greater Los Angeles, attracting in the know tourists and locals alike.

The Viceroy has developed a reputation for its party atmosphere lobby as much as its luxury accommodations. Now wealthy hipsters from North Hollywood and Beverly Hills are heading out on the Santa Monica Freeway to check a scene that rivals the hot spots in those areas.

design

Interior designer Kelly Wearstler of kwid design apparently played spin the globe and decided that the non-descript 1960s white modern 8 story building on the Pacific ocean should have... an english classical interior. Well, why not? Hence the name, the english china stuck to the walls everywhere, mirrors in ornate frames and an over-sized cameo motif over the front desk.

Rooms The rooms tend to look more Liberace than London inspired, with silver reflective wallpaper, white chandeliers and decadent white marble bathrooms. The white, green and grey palette is continued from the lobby into the rooms. Each of the 170 spacious rooms comes with luxurious 500 thread count Frette sheets, down comforters and king size beds. The decor may be classic English, but the room functions are pure 21st century, with conveniences such as flat screen 27" televisions, T1 high-speed internet access CD-DVD players, video games and more. If possible, choose an ocean view on the fourth floor or higher. All rooms have sliding glass doors and mini balconies. The sunsets over the pacific are worth leaving the party downstairs over.

food + drink

The popular main dining room, Whist, named for the popular english card game, is operated by husband and wife team Tim and Liza Goodall. The pair made a name for themselves in the region with Aubergine in Newport Beach and Troquet in Costa Mesa. Specialties on the Whist menu include hot smoked King Salmon and braised Prime Short Ribs with creamy polenta. The pair have received rave reviews, from no less an authority than Gourmet magazine, which calls them "one of the country's most talented husband and wife teams."

ambience

The focus is the poolside and lobby party scene - both day and night. It is also big on security. Expect an intimidating black-suited bouncer with secret service style ear piece to demand your room key once when you try to enter the front door and again when you approach the elevator.

clientele

If L.A. hot-spots are measured by celebrity spotting - and they are - this one is not quite on the A-list. There is plenty of ostentatious wealth present however. If you're not driving a luxury car, best to park it yourself, the valets are notorious for playing hide-the-Honda. Spaces by the door are reserved for the many Porsche, Land Rover and Hummer drivers.

service

It is baffling that a hotel can spend $15 million on decoration and then serve inferior coffee. Add a U.S.$5 room service fee and a poor cup of coffee in your room costs U.S.$8. Luckily, one of the best breakfast spots in town, Cora's coffee shoppe, is just across the street at 1802 Ocean Ave. March in ostentatiously with your to-go mug and they may soon get the hint.

things to do

Forget what you know about car-addicted L.A. This is one place where you can get away without renting one. The beach is only 200 metres from the door and, a ten minute walk in either direction, are some great shopping streets. Third Street Promenade is a bustling pedestrian mall, four blocks long with live music and a festival atomosphere much of the year. Many of the usual suspects from malls everywhere can be found but a few real gems as well - most notably Hennesy + Ingalls - one of the best art and architecture bookstores in the world.

Walking south into adjacent Venice, along Main Street is a more relaxed retail and restaurant strip featuring predominantly independent local shops. Architecture enthusiasts will want check out nearby early Frank Gehry buildings from the 1970s and 80s. Your concierge will be happy to show you where to look. A short cab ride away is Bergamot Station - a complex of forty contemporary art galleries. The Santa Monica Museum of Art is also there making this one of the best art areas in greater Los Angeles.

contact info

1819 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica - California 90401 T 310 260 7500 F 310 394 6657 reservations 800 622 8711 info@viceroysantamonica.com

Rooms range from U.S.$305-405, suites start at U.S.$689

originally printed in The Globe & Mail newspaper, Saturday February 1, 2003